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Thermostat Wiring Letters and Terminals: Every Letter Explained

Table of Contents

SAFETY: Turn off power at the breaker or furnace switch before touching any thermostat wiring, and confirm the display is dark before pulling the old unit off the wall. Thermostat control wiring is 24V AC, but a short can still blow the control-board fuse or the transformer.

Every thermostat wire does one of about twenty jobs, and the letter next to each terminal tells you which. This page is the full reference: every terminal letter, what it switches, and which ones your system actually has. For the hookup steps and diagrams by wire count, start with the full thermostat wiring guide.

Every thermostat terminal letter

LetterNameWhat it doesAlways present?
RPower24V AC power from the transformer. Feeds every other terminal.Yes, on every system
RcCooling power24V power dedicated to the cooling circuit, on systems with two transformersOnly on dual-transformer systems
RhHeating power24V power dedicated to the heating circuit, on systems with two transformersOnly on dual-transformer systems
CCommonReturn path that gives the thermostat constant power. Required by most smart thermostats.No — many older systems have none
WHeat (single-stage)Calls the furnace or boiler for heatOn heat/cool and heat-only systems
W1Heat, stage 1First-stage heat on multi-stage furnaces (same job as plain W)Multi-stage furnaces only
W2Heat, stage 2 / backupSecond-stage furnace heat, or backup/aux heat on a heat pumpTwo-stage furnaces, heat pumps with backup strips
W3Heat, stage 3Third heating stage on some multi-stage furnaces or boilersRare — some multi-stage/hydronic systems
YCooling (single-stage)Calls the compressor for cooling (or, on a heat pump, for both heating and cooling)On any system with a compressor
Y1Cooling, stage 1First-stage compressor call on multi-stage systems (same job as plain Y)Two-stage/variable equipment
Y2Cooling, stage 2Second-stage or full-capacity compressor callTwo-stage/variable equipment
GFanRuns the indoor blowerYes, on forced-air systems
OReversing valve (cool)Energizes the heat-pump reversing valve in cooling, on most brandsHeat pumps only
BReversing valve (heat)Energizes the heat-pump reversing valve in heating, on Rheem/Ruud and similar brandsHeat pumps only
O/BReversing valveSingle shared terminal for the reversing valve wire; you set O or B in the thermostat menuHeat pumps only
EEmergency heatManual override: disables the compressor, runs backup heat aloneHeat pumps only
AUXAuxiliary heatBackup heat that runs alongside the compressor automatically (often the same physical circuit as W2)Heat pumps only
LIndicator lightTypically lights an indicator for aux/emergency heat or a system faultUncommon — some furnaces/air handlers only
S1 / S2Outdoor or remote sensorCarries outdoor-temperature (or remote-sensor) data to the thermostatOnly on thermostats with a wired sensor input
KCombined fan + commonHoneywell-specific: one wire carries both G and C signals via an adapter moduleOnly with a Honeywell K-terminal model + WireSaver adapter
* (accessory / ACC)AccessoryConnects a humidifier, dehumidifier, or ventilatorOnly if the thermostat supports one accessory device

Colors are not on this list on purpose. Wire color is a convention some installers followed, not a standard anyone enforces. Go by the terminal letter, always. Full color-by-color breakdown and multimeter checks: thermostat wiring color code guide.

Decision chart mapping thermostat wire count to which terminal letters are present and the matching wiring guide
Decision chart mapping thermostat wire count to which terminal letters are present and the matching wiring guide

Rc, Rh, and the jumper: the terminal pair that confuses the most people

Rc and Rh only exist because some homes run two 24V transformers, one for heating equipment and one for cooling equipment, instead of one shared transformer. On a single-transformer system, the one R wire lands on either R or Rc (interchangeably, depending on the thermostat), and a jumper bridges Rc to Rh so that one 24V feed powers both circuits.

Two R wires means two live transformers: each wire gets its own terminal, and the jumper must come out, or you risk shorting two out-of-phase 24V feeds together. This is common enough, and wrong often enough, that it gets its own page: thermostat Rc/Rh jumper wiring covers the jumper, the slider-tab equivalent on newer Honeywell models, and how to test which situation you have with a multimeter.

W2 isn’t one thing

W2 means something different depending on what’s attached to it, which is why it shows up in more searches than almost any other terminal:

  • On a furnace or boiler with two heating stages, W2 is the second, higher-output heating stage. W1 (or plain W) handles normal demand; W2 adds capacity on cold days.
  • On a heat pump, W2 is usually the backup/auxiliary heat terminal: electric resistance strips (or, on a dual-fuel system, the furnace) that run alongside the compressor when it needs help. This is the same physical role as the AUX terminal on many thermostats; manufacturers label it either way.

Same letter, two different jobs, decided entirely by what kind of equipment is on the other end of the wire. If you’re not sure which applies, check the equipment’s own wiring diagram, usually printed inside an access panel.

Terminals that only show up on some systems

A handful of letters on the table above are easy to miss because most homes never wire them:

  • S1/S2 carry data from a wired outdoor or remote-room sensor, not a 24V switching signal. Only thermostats built for a wired sensor input have them; the Honeywell T10/T10+ Pro is one example, using them for an outdoor-temperature probe.
  • K is a Honeywell-only shortcut: paired with an add-on module, it lets one wire carry both the fan (G) and common (C) signals, which frees up a conductor on a 4-wire system that has no C. Only T-series Honeywell thermostats have the terminal at all.
  • L usually drives a physical indicator light for aux/emergency heat or a fault condition, not a heating or cooling call itself. Whether your equipment has it (and what triggers it) depends on the furnace or air-handler control board.
  • The accessory terminal (often marked ACC or *) connects one extra device, most commonly a whole-house humidifier or dehumidifier. It doesn’t control heating or cooling and won’t appear on a basic thermostat.

None of these are required for a working system. If your old thermostat’s sub-base doesn’t have a matching terminal for one of these, the wire simply wasn’t there to begin with.

How many terminals you actually need

Terminal count isn’t the same as wire count. A basic heat/cool system needs five terminals at most (R, C, W, Y, G); a heat pump with backup heat and two compressor stages can use nine or more (R, C, Y1, Y2, G, O/B, W2/AUX, E). Match what’s physically on your old thermostat’s sub-base, letter for letter, and you’ll never need more terminals than wires. Full breakdown by wire count, with a diagram for each: thermostat wiring guide.

Wire color (typical)TerminalWhat it does
RedR (or Rc / Rh)24 V AC power from the transformer. Rc = cooling power, Rh = heating power; one system uses a jumper between them.
WhiteW (W1, W2)Heat call. W2 is second-stage or auxiliary heat.
YellowY (Y1, Y2)Cooling call — energizes the compressor contactor. On heat pumps, Y runs the compressor for heating too.
GreenGIndoor fan (blower) relay.
BlueCCommon — completes the 24 V circuit and gives smart thermostats constant power. Sometimes black.
OrangeO (or O/B)Heat-pump reversing valve, energized in cooling (most brands).
Dark blueBHeat-pump reversing valve, energized in heating (Rheem/Ruud). Occasionally used as C — verify.
BrownEEmergency heat — manual backup that locks out the compressor.
VariesAUXAuxiliary heat — automatic electric backup on heat pumps. Often shares a wire with W2.
Colors are conventions, not rules. The installer may have used any color for any terminal — always match by the terminal letter on the old thermostat, not the wire color. Label each wire with masking tape before disconnecting anything.

FAQ

What do the letters on thermostat wiring mean?
Each letter marks one job in the 24V control circuit: R is power, C is common, W is heat, Y is cooling, G is fan, O/B is the heat-pump reversing valve, and E/AUX handle backup and emergency heat. The full table above covers every letter, including the less common ones (S1/S2, K, L, accessory).

What is Rc on a thermostat?
Rc is 24V power dedicated to the cooling circuit on a system with two transformers (one for heating, one for cooling). On a single-transformer system, R and Rc are the same terminal, usually bridged by a jumper. Full explanation: Rc/Rh jumper wiring.

What is W2 on a thermostat?
Second-stage heat on a furnace or boiler, or backup/auxiliary heat on a heat pump. Which one it means depends on the equipment attached; check your furnace or air handler’s wiring diagram if you’re not sure.

Does every thermostat use all these terminals?
No. A basic heat-only or heat/cool system uses five terminals at most. The rest (O/B, W2, E, AUX, S1/S2, K, accessory) only appear on systems with a heat pump, multiple stages, a wired sensor, or an accessory like a humidifier.

Is the wire color the same as the terminal letter?
No, and don’t assume it is. Wire color is a common convention, not an enforced standard; always match by the letter printed next to the terminal, not the color of the insulation. See the color code guide for the full color-by-color breakdown and how to verify with a multimeter.

What is the accessory or “*” terminal for?
It powers one extra device the thermostat controls beyond heating and cooling, most often a whole-house humidifier, dehumidifier, or ventilator. Not every thermostat has one, and it only supports a single accessory at a time.

⚠️ Know when to stop

Thermostat wiring is 24 V AC low voltage — safe to handle once you cut power at the breaker (do it anyway; a short can kill the transformer or blow the board fuse). But stop and call an HVAC pro or electrician if you hit any of these:

  • Line voltage (120/240 V): thick wires with wire nuts, often on baseboard or wall-heater thermostats. Miswiring these can injure you or start a fire.
  • Gas components: anything past the furnace control board — gas valves, ignitors, pilot assemblies.
  • Refrigerant lines or sealed-system parts on heat pumps and AC units.
  • No idea which system you have: if the wiring doesn’t match any diagram here, photograph it and get a pro’s eyes on it before guessing.

Last reviewed: July 2026. Terminal definitions cross-checked against Honeywell Home, Google Nest, and Resideo/Honeywell T10 support documentation, plus iFixit and HVACR School for the less common terminals; always confirm against your equipment’s own manual before wiring.

About the Author – Dan Golden
Picture of Dan Golden

Dan Golden

Dan Golden is a Chicago-based developer, entrepreneur, and proptech builder focused on making homes smarter and more sustainable. He is the creator of HomeDoc, a home management platform that helps homeowners track maintenance, warranties, and projects, and HomeEnergyPlanner, a resource for evaluating energy upgrades and efficiency improvements. On the commercial and enterprise side, Dan co-founded Pandotic, a product studio behind BidSmart, an AI-powered HVAC bid analysis tool, and LEEDsmart, a platform for navigating green building certification. His work in sustainable real estate also extends to ESGsource, where he covers green building trends and ESG developments in the built environment.
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