Count the blinks between pauses. On most 80% single-stage Goodman and Amana furnaces built roughly 2011-2020, the diagnostic LED flashes a number 1 through 8, then pauses and repeats; that count maps to a specific fault. Furnaces with the newer control board (most single-stage models built 2021 or later, and every two-stage or 96% AFUE model) skip the blink count entirely and show a two-character code like “EE2” on a small display instead.
Before anything else: the code chart printed on the sticker inside your furnace’s door panel is specific to your exact control board and always overrides a generic guide like this one if the two disagree.
—
Two different Goodman diagnostic systems: check which one you have
Goodman has used two unrelated LED diagnostic systems across its furnace lineup, and mixing them up is the single most common source of bad advice online (including, until this update, on this page).
- Counted-blink LED (PCBBF132 / PCBBF134 control boards): the light blinks a number of times, pauses, and repeats. Common on 80% single-stage Goodman/Amana models (GMS8, GDS8, GHS8, GME8, GMH8, and Amana equivalents) from roughly the early 2010s through the late 2010s.
- Alphanumeric status code (newer integrated control modules): a small 7-segment display shows a two- or three-character code such as “EE2” or “E10.” Standard on current-production single-stage 80% models (GM9S80/AM9S80 and similar) and on every two-stage or 96% AFUE model.
Open the door panel and look at the display before troubleshooting. If you see a number of blinks, use the table below. If you see letters and numbers together, skip to the alphanumeric code table.
—
How to read a counted-blink code
- Open the lower door panel (it usually slides or snaps off).
- Find the LED on the integrated control module, mounted near the burner compartment.
- Watch the pattern: a set number of flashes, a pause, then the same count repeats. Watch at least two full cycles to confirm the number.
- A steady, non-flashing LED means normal operation. No light at all means the control isn’t getting 115V or 24V power: check the breaker, the door interlock switch (it cuts power when the panel is off), and the control board’s fuse before assuming a bigger fault.
—
Counted-blink codes: the verified table (PCBBF132 / PCBBF134 boards)
| Flashes | Fault | What triggers it | DIY or call a pro? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steady, no flashing | Normal operation | No fault | None |
| No light | No power to control | Breaker, door switch, or blown control-board fuse | DIY check |
| 1 | Ignition lockout (or auxiliary limit tripped during a heat cycle) | Failed ignition × 3 attempts, or the auxiliary limit switch opened mid-cycle | DIY start |
| 2 | Pressure switch circuit closed while the inducer is off | Stuck pressure switch contacts, or a short in the pressure switch circuit | DIY check |
| 3 | Pressure switch circuit not closed while the inducer is running | Blocked/pinched pressure switch hose, blocked flue, weak inducer motor | DIY check |
| 4 | Primary limit circuit open | Restricted airflow (filter, ductwork, blower speed) overheating the heat exchanger | DIY check |
| 5 | Flame sensed with no call for heat | Short to ground in the flame-sense circuit | Call a pro |
| 6 | Rollout limit open | Flame rollout: misaligned burners, blocked flue/inlet piping, failed inducer, or a blown control-board fuse | Call a pro |
| 7 | Low flame-sense signal | Flame sensor coated/oxidized or misaligned; lazy flame from improper gas pressure | DIY (cleaning) |
| 8 | Igniter circuit problem | Bad igniter, poor unit ground, or a faulty control module | DIY check, then call a pro |
| Continuous flashing (no counted pause) | Reversed 115V or 24V polarity | Line polarity reversed at the furnace, or a poor ground | Call a pro/electrician |
Source: Goodman Installation Instructions IO-446C (PCBBF132/PCBBF134 control boards), p.34-36. There is no 9-flash code on this board. If you’re counting nine, recount: it’s almost certainly 6 (rollout) or 8 (igniter) with an extra flash miscounted in a dim sight-glass.
1 flash: Ignition lockout
The control tried to ignite three times, failed each time, and locked out. It resets itself automatically after about an hour, or you can force a reset now: cut power at the furnace switch for 20-30 seconds and restore it.
Find out why it failed before resetting again:
- Is the igniter glowing? With the door panel off and a call for heat active, watch the igniter, a fragile ceramic or silicon-nitride rod near the burners. If it doesn’t glow within 30-60 seconds, see Furnace Hot-Surface Igniter: Symptoms and Replacement.
- Igniter glows but no flame? Gas isn’t reaching the burners: check the manual gas valve lever is OPEN and the house gas supply is on.
- Flame appears, then drops out? That’s a flame-sensor issue; see code 7 below.
This same 1-flash code also fires if the auxiliary limit switch opens mid-cycle (a second overheating safeguard, separate from the primary limit at code 4). If code 1 keeps returning and ignition looks fine, check for restricted airflow the same way you would for code 4.
2 flashes: Pressure switch circuit closed while the inducer is off
The control expects the pressure switch open when the inducer isn’t running. If it reads closed anyway, it stops as a safety measure before the inducer even starts.
- The pressure switch is a small round disc near the inducer motor, connected by a rubber hose.
- Check the hose for kinks, collapse, or trapped water: water in the line creates a false reading.
- With a multimeter, check continuity across the switch at rest (no call for heat): it should read open (no continuity). Continuity at rest means a stuck switch; replace it.
3 flashes: Pressure switch circuit not closed while the inducer runs
The inducer is creating draft that should pull the switch closed within the trial period; if it doesn’t, ignition doesn’t start.
Most common cause on 90%+ AFUE furnaces specifically: a blocked condensate drain. High-efficiency condensing furnaces (marked 90%+ on the rating plate) route condensate from a secondary heat exchanger through a drain trap; a clog backs water into the exchanger and creates back-pressure that keeps the switch open. 80% AFUE furnaces have no secondary heat exchanger and produce no condensate. On those, look first at the flue pipe and the inducer itself, not a drain.
- If your furnace is 90%+ AFUE: find the condensate drain (a white or clear plastic line to a floor drain or condensate pump) and check the U-shaped trap for standing water. Clear it with a wet-dry vac and flush with water.
- On any furnace: check the flue/vent pipe for blockage or disconnection.
- Confirm the inducer motor is actually spinning with power on; a weak or seized inducer produces the same code.
4 flashes: Primary limit circuit open (overheating)
The primary limit switch trips when heat exchanger temperature exceeds its setpoint, almost always because airflow is restricted.
Start with the filter. A clogged filter is the leading cause of primary-limit trips. Hold it to a light source; if you can’t see light through it, replace it.
If the filter is clean, check that supply registers aren’t closed off, the return isn’t blocked by furniture, and the blower wheel spins freely by hand with power off. A blower wheel caked in dust can’t move enough air even with a clean filter.
5 flashes: Flame sensed with no call for heat
Goodman’s official cause for this code is a short to ground in the flame-sense circuit, not necessarily a stuck-open gas valve. The control is detecting a flame signal (or a signal that looks like one) when nothing should be burning.
Turn off the furnace and inspect the flame sensor wire and connector for a chafed or shorted wire before assuming a gas valve failure. If you find a genuine stuck-open gas valve rather than a wiring short, that’s a gas-side repair: call a licensed HVAC tech, and shut the manual gas valve off in the meantime.
6 flashes: Rollout limit open
This is the rollout code on this board: not 9, and not a polarity issue. A rollout limit is a manual-reset safety device that trips if flame extends outside the burner box. Causes include misaligned burners, a blocked flue or inlet pipe, a failed inducer, or (on some units) simply a blown 3A control-board fuse.
Do not reset a rollout switch without finding the cause. Turn off the furnace and gas supply and call a licensed HVAC technician to inspect the burners and heat exchanger. A rollout can indicate a cracked heat exchanger, which lets combustion byproducts, including carbon monoxide, into the building air.
7 flashes: Low flame-sense signal
The flame sensor confirms combustion by measuring a tiny current (a few microamps) through the ionized flame. A thin oxide layer builds up on the rod over months of use and eventually drops that signal below the control’s threshold.
Cleaning the flame sensor is DIY-appropriate and usually fixes this:
- Turn off the furnace power switch.
- Find the flame sensor: a thin metal rod with a ceramic base, mounted near the burners, with a single wire connector.
- Disconnect the wire, remove the mounting screw, and gently clean the metal rod (not the ceramic) with fine steel wool, emery cloth, or a folded dollar bill. Light strokes only.
- Reinstall, restore power, and test.
If the sensor is cracked or broken, replace it; parts run $15-30 at an HVAC supply house. See Furnace Flame Sensor: Symptoms and Cleaning.
8 flashes: Igniter circuit problem
Goodman’s own field bulletin on this exact code (SF-024) says it most often traces back to an open or insufficient furnace ground, not a bad igniter. Check ground wire connections to the chassis, especially the blower motor ground and the low-voltage common ground, before replacing parts.
- Check and tighten all furnace ground connections, then cycle power for 10 seconds and retest.
- If the code returns, check the igniter’s resistance with an ohmmeter (a mini carbide igniter should read 30-300 ohms at room temperature; a silicon-nitride igniter, 37-68 ohms). Replace if it reads open or wildly out of range.
- If grounding and the igniter both check out, the fault is on the control module itself.
Continuous flashing (no counted pause): reversed polarity
If the LED flashes continuously rather than counting out a number, that’s reversed 115V or 24V polarity to the furnace or control module, or a poor unit ground, not a rollout, and not related to the numbered codes above.
Call an electrician or HVAC tech to check polarity at the disconnect, outlet, or panel, and to verify the furnace ground. Do not attempt to rewire line voltage yourself.
—
Alphanumeric status codes (newer control boards) {#alphanumeric-status-codes-newer-control-boards}
If your furnace’s display shows letters and numbers instead of counting blinks, you have the newer integrated control module used on current single-stage 80% models and all two-stage/96% AFUE models. This board shows:
| Display | Fault | Corrective action |
|---|---|---|
| IdL | Normal operation | None |
| EE0 | Lockout from excessive ignition retries, failure to establish flame, or loss of flame after establishment | Check gas supply, igniter, flame sensor, flue, and inducer |
| EE1 | Pressure switch circuit closed at the start of a heat cycle | Check for sticking contacts or a short in pressure switch wiring |
| EE2 | Pressure switch circuit not closed when it should be | Inspect pressure switch hose, flue, and inducer performance |
| EE3 | Primary limit circuit open | Check filters, ductwork, and circulator blower |
| EE4 | Flame sensed with no call for heat | Check for a short to ground in the flame sense circuit |
| EE5 | Open fuse or short in low-voltage wiring | Replace fuse; locate the short |
| EE6 | Flame-sense signal is low (normal operation, informational) | Clean flame sensor, check gas pressure |
| EEL | Igniter circuit problem | Check igniter wiring, connection, and unit ground |
| EEA | Reversed 115V polarity or poor ground | Correct polarity and verify ground |
| EEb / EEC | Gas valve circuit fault (external or internal) | Check gas valve wiring; may require control board replacement |
| E10 | Grounding fault or poor neutral connection | Verify neutral wiring and ground continuity |
| E11 | Open rollout switch | Check burner alignment and gas pressure; call a pro |
| EEn | Igniter open | Check igniter wiring; replace igniter |
| EEJ | Inducer relay error | Replace control board |
| EEH | Twinning error (twinned-furnace installs only) | Check twin wiring; replace control board |
| EEE | Internal control board fault | Replace control board |
Source: Goodman Service and Troubleshooting manual RS6621008 (July 2021), “1 Stage Status Codes” and “1 Stage Troubleshooting Codes,” p.50-53. On this board, view the last six stored faults by pressing the left/right switch until “LSF” displays, then press the center switch.
—
Confirming the fault history
On counted-blink boards, the LED shows only the most recently stored fault. If the furnace is running fine now but had a fault earlier, it may still display that stored code. Cut power for 30 seconds to clear it; if the same code reappears on the next heat cycle, the underlying problem is still there.
—
When to call a licensed HVAC technician
- Code 6 (rollout) or E11: stop using the furnace and call now: possible cracked heat exchanger.
- Code 5 / EE4 (flame sensed, no call): check for a wiring short yourself; a confirmed stuck gas valve is a pro repair.
- Continuous flashing / EEA (polarity, grounding): electrical repair: call an electrician or HVAC tech.
- Code 4 / EE3 repeating after a filter change and airflow check: possible heat exchanger or blower motor issue.
- Any code that returns immediately after your first repair attempt.
For a furnace with no visible flash code at all, see Furnace Not Heating: Causes and What to Check First.
—
FAQ
Are Amana and Goodman furnace codes the same? Yes. Amana and Goodman are both made by Daikin/Goodman Manufacturing on shared control boards, so the same code, whether counted blinks or an alphanumeric display, means the same thing on either brand.
My furnace flashes 6 times. Is that a wiring/polarity problem or a rollout? On the counted-blink board, 6 flashes is a rollout limit trip. Reversed polarity shows as continuous flashing with no counted pause, not a specific number. If you’re not sure which you’re seeing, watch for a full 15-20 seconds: a true numbered code always pauses and repeats the same count.
I see a code with letters, like “EE2.” Where’s that in the blink chart? It isn’t: that’s the newer alphanumeric control board, not the counted-blink system. See the alphanumeric table above.
How many ignition attempts before lockout? Three, on both board generations. Lockout clears automatically after about an hour, or immediately if you interrupt power for 20-30 seconds.
Can I run the furnace with the door panel off to watch the code? Most Goodman furnaces have a door interlock switch that cuts power to the control when the panel is removed. You can usually depress the switch manually to watch the display briefly, but don’t leave the door off and the furnace running unattended.
—
Last reviewed 2026-08-17. Flash-code and status-code tables verified directly against Goodman Manufacturing Company / Daikin Comfort Technologies official service and installation manuals (IO-446C, RS6621008, RS6612020r1) and Service Bulletin SF-024. The sticker inside your specific furnace’s door panel is the definitive source if it differs from this guide.
Related guides
- Goodman HVAC: Brand Overview, Reliability, and Repair Help: product lines, serial number age lookup, warranty, and common repair patterns.
- Furnace Not Heating: Diagnostic Order: if no flash code is showing at all.
- Furnace Flame Sensor: Symptoms and Cleaning: codes 5 and 7 (or EE4/EE6) usually lead here.
- Furnace Hot-Surface Igniter: Symptoms and Replacement: code 1 or 8 (or EE0/EEL) with a cold igniter leads here.
